UK's BEST Seaside Towns (Falmouth, Cornwall)
The UK coast boasts more beach towns than you can shake a stick of rock at. Authors share their favourites for sun-kissed memories of summer
Falmouth, Cornwall
Politicians and entrepreneurs, pirates and outlaws, Falmouth’s founding family, the Killigrews, lurched over the centuries between respectability and infamy. And though they’re long gone, Falmouth retains something of the Killigrews’ dual nature. From the town’s three beautiful beaches the dirty smudge of tankers can be seen on the horizon. Commercial ships in the harbour tower over the sails of picturesque Falmouth working boats.
The best views are from the water, and there are plenty of opportunities to explore the sheltered Carrick Roads (the Fal estuary) by kayak, paddleboard, dinghy or on the small ferry that links Falmouth with St Mawes. Landlubbers can watch the boats from the back windows of the Star and Garter on the High Street and enjoy excellent nose-to-tail dishes from the kitchen’s wood-fired oven.
The town has an fiercely independent streak and is home to some exceptional food and drink enthusiasts. Dolly’s Tea Room and Wine Bar stocks more than 200 gins; Espressini (two branches) takes its coffee more seriously than most; and tucked away in a small courtyard, Beerwolf combines dark wood and pale ale with an excellent selection of books.
You may have to search for it but the Killigrews’ maverick spirit persists. Falmouth is lively, rough round the edges in all the right ways and still not quite respectable, and for those reasons alone, I love it.
Stay On the quayside, the 17th-century Chain Locker has doubles from £95 B&B.
Wyl Menmuir, author of Man Booker prize-longlisted novel The Many
https://www.theguardian.com
Wyl Menmuir, author of Man Booker prize-longlisted novel The Many
https://www.theguardian.com